Many of you probably already know how to change the oil in your Mercedes-Benz Ponton. Changing the oil is typically one of the first mechanical maintenance jobs we learn to do on a car. It does not require a lot of time, specialized knowledge, or tools, and so it is a good place to get familiar with the workings of the vehicle. This web page is provided as a way to reveal some of the basic steps in performing a very important job. If you are one of the people who have not yet tried to change the oil, this page is for you.
Over an extended period, routine oil changes are one of the best ways to prevent engine problems. The interval between oil changes can vary depending on your driving habits. Suggested oil change intervals are 3,000 to 5,000 miles (approximately 4,000 km to 8,000 km) for a car that is driven regularly all year long. If the car is driven infrequently and sits in a garage most of the time, it is best to change the oil every 6 months regardless of the miles driven.
Changing the oil on a Mercedes-Benz Ponton may be slightly different from other cars you have worked on, so some unique features should be pointed out.
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The oil filter is a replaceable paper element which fits in a permanent metal canister that bolts to the lower portion of the engine.
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There are two different oil filter designs used on the Ponton models. The first design is a paper filter element with a wire screen element. The wire screen element requires cleaning every time the oil and filter are changed.[1] This article features the later style paper filter element (with no wire screen).[2] If your car is equipped with the early style oil filter which includes the wire screen element, be sure to clarify this with your parts vendor when ordering a new filter because a smaller paper filter element is required for cars that use the wire screen element.
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Removing the oil pan drain plug requires a 14 mm hex (Allen) wrench. These wrenches are available at automotive specialty stores and tool vendors.[3]
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Since the Mercedes-Benz Ponton vehicles are quite old and perhaps a little rusty underneath, you will need to have a set of ramps or a floor jack to elevate the front of the car while you are working under it. The ramps are real nice if you do not need to remove a wheel. The original jack that came with the car is probably of no use because the jack points on the body may be structurally weakened by a less than perfect chassis. If a floor jack is used, then you will also need a set of jack stands to place under the car in the event the jack fails. People living in earthquake zones may want to bolster the car with 2 tires (mounted on the rims) stacked under several points to increase the safety factor.
Things to have available to perform the job:
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Sunny day, temperature about 72° F (22° C), light
breeze, few clouds.
- Owner's manual to reference exact amount of oil required.
- Maintenance record to keep track of your oil changes.
- Floor jack or ramps. If you have a lift or pit in your garage, you probably do not need to read this page.
- Jack stands for supplemental support should the floor jack fail.
- New motor oil. See owner's manual for specific amount.
- New oil filter. Most include new metal crush washers and rubber O-ring.
- 14 mm hex (Allen) wrench for oil drain plug. May be considered a specialized tool if you do not currently own one.
- 17 mm wrench for oil filter canister bolt. A 17 mm socket wrench works well too.
- Roll of paper shop towels.
- Drain pan for catching the old oil.
- Funnel for refilling engine with new oil.
The oil change process:
Warm up the engine so that any impurities will be in suspension in the oil when you drain it off. Drive the car up on ramps to gain easy access to the oil drain plug and oil filter canister. Place the car in first gear and place a block of wood behind the rear wheel to insure the car will not roll off the ramps while you are working under it.
A floor jack can also be used. In this case, jack the left front of the car up so that the side of the engine where the oil filter is located (it is on the same side for both left hand drive and right hand drive cars) will be easier to get under. Be absolutely sure that you place a jack stand under the car so that if the floor jack fails you will be safe. Never work under a car that is only supported by a floor jack.
This photo shows the motor oil (Castrol 20W-50), new oil filter with rubber O-ring and crush washers (supplied with oil filter), 14 mm hex (Allen) wrench (for oil drain plug) and a 17 mm wrench (for oil filter canister).
Place a drain pan under the car to catch the old oil. When finished, take the container to a service or recycling center so that the oil is disposed of in an environmentally safe way. Do not dump the used motor oil on the ground, in to a sewer drain, or down a woodchuck hole.
Here is the paper oil filter element. The paper element slides in to a metal canister (not shown). The metal canister is a permanent fixture on the car and gets re-used each time the filter is replaced.
Here are two different style 14 mm hex (Allen) wrenches. The smaller one is from an original Mercedes-Benz Ponton tool kit and the larger "L" shaped one is from a general purpose automotive supply store. The larger "L" shaped hex wrench will work well on the oil pan drain plug because there is unlimited clearance for the tool. Note that the original 14 mm hex wrench will be needed if the transmission fluid is to be changed. Also note the drain plug and copper crush washer. The washer is usually supplied with the oil filter and needs to be replaced each time the oil is changed.
Remove the oil filler cap so that when you remove the drain plug you will get good flow in to the drain pan.
Position yourself under the front of the car and place the drain pan under the plug. Use the 14 mm hex (Allen) wrench to remove the drain plug. The drain plug is loosened by turning it counter-clockwise. If you are having difficulty removing the plug, it may be over tightened. Once the plug is removed, let the oil drain for 5 minutes or until the flow is reduced to just a trickle. Then replace the drain plug along with the new copper crush washer.
Now is the time to get your roll of paper shop towels. To gain access to the oil filter canister, position yourself under the front of the car and slide far enough until you see the canister, or slide under the left side of the car and move far enough to the center so that you can get the 17 mm wrench on the bolt at the bottom of the canister. Then position the drain pan under the oil filter canister and proceed to loosen the 17 mm bolt. When it starts coming loose, the remaining oil will start to flow (all over). When the canister comes completely loose, just let it rest on the steering and suspension components until it is finished dripping. Then remove it from the top of the engine compartment. The problem is that if you want to remove the canister from the bottom, you need to tip it which tends to spill more oil. When you are lying on the ground holding the canister, the oil can only go in one direction (up your arm). If you pull the canister out through the top of the engine compartment, you will not have to tip it as much.
This is second version of the permanent metal oil filter canister (reference Table 9 Part #19b below) along with the (17 mm head) bolt and the O-ring and paper filter element. Replace the crush washers for the bolt and the O-ring seal at the top of the canister. Most filters come with a set of new washers and an O-ring. Also note the paper towel in this photo. You will want plenty of these on hand before you start the job. Insert the new paper filter element in to the canister and then proceed to install it on the car again. I find that crawling under the car from the front affords the greatest physical and visual access to the place where the canister and bolt need to be installed. The bolt for the canister seems to be just barely long enough, and getting the canister in place while threading the bolt can be a little tricky the first few times you do it.
